Who knew lighting could be so complicated – Well, no one does until that all important bulb in your kitchen, garage or BOAT(!) needs replacing!
We have compiled a top 10 list of hard to find lighting products help you guys out – We hope this helps!
1) 32.5 volt 34 watt SBC-B15 Miniature Light Bulb – KS550032034 – Commonly used in garage applications.
Used on Henderson / Sommer Sommer Sprint, Marathon & Duo Vision garage door operators. Small bayonet cap. Sommer Ref: 11010A – Click Here To View!
2) Smilight tubes – A non-standard length Smilight fluorescent tubes can only be used in the SMILIGHT range of fittings. Typically used for under-cupboard lights in MFI, SCHREIBER and HYGENA kitchens – Click Here To View!
3) Lytlec T4 Fluorescent tubes – As above, these skinny T4 tubes are often used for under-cabinet lighting in kitchens but they are also seen in shops and show rooms for under-counter lighting.
4) 110v 60 watt Work Lamps – Often used in building sites, these lamps are slowly being phased out due to their lack of energy efficiency. For that reason these have become very hard to find now – Click Here To View!
5) Incandescent S14S Archtectural Lamps – Extremely popular during the 70s, 80s, 90s and noughties these lamps are another victim of the EU light bulb ban. The problem being thousands of people still have fittings that take these lamps and love the light they emit – Luckily, we can still supply them…For how much longer, we do not know – Click Here To View!
6) Sylvania H44GS-100M Mercury Vapour lamp – Certainly a specialist lamp, not designed for out domestic clients, this lamp is made in the US, which explains why so many users struggle to find suppliers in the UK – We keep these in high stock for that reason – Click Here To View!
7) Pointed tip chandelier candle bulbs – As already mentioned above, these incandescent lamps have also fallen foul to the light bulb ban. Often used in fittings with multiple lamp, swapping these over to halogen or LED lamp can ruin the look of older, rustic fittings. Luckily we still have a limited supply – Click Here To View!
8) 50 watt MR16 Hexagonal Dichroic Bulb – Very popular for decorative applications in homes and for something a little different, these lamps only go into hexagonal light fittings – Click Here To View!
9) 35mm 240 volt 25 watt E12 Candelabra Candle Light Bulb – Extremely popular for use in American chandeliers, these 12mm screw capped lamps will only fit in E12 fittings – Click Here To View!
10) 24 volt 20 watt H68082F MR11 35mm G4 Halogen Lamp – Commonly used in coach and boat lighting this lamp has a closed front and can only be used in certain low voltage lighting set because of the voltage – Click Here To View!
Okay….So, T4 tubes are probably one of our best selling ranges.
There is some very important information you must consider before buying them though – Especially online where you are unable to physically see what you are buying before making the purchase – Here is where we can help!
We often speak to clients who are unable to find T4s anywhere on the high-street or online these days. The truth is T4 tubes are still available; A lot of companies just don’t want the hassle that comes with selling them though.
The first thing to bear in mind is there are about 25 different manufacturers of T4 fluorescent tubes. To make things easy for you (NOT!) Every single one of these manufacturers make them in a different length. It is very easy to get this wrong and assume that there is only one type of 6 or 8 watt T4 tube.
We have in past had customers unable to use tubes they have received because there was a 2mm difference between the tube they were using and had just purchased.
The best way to make sure you are buying the correct T4 fluorescent tubes is by matching up the manufacturers. This is usually labelled on the tube itself or the fitting.
Hopefully the links below will help in your search of matching up the correct T4 fluorescent tubes in your home or work place.
Eterna T4 Ulta Slim Fluorescent Tubes –
Very popular lamps, sometimes the code start FT followed by the wattage – For example FT10 = 10 watt T4 fluorescent – More often or not though the code should start N64/
Probably the most popular T4s we sell these tubes are made by ROBUS but the range is sometimes called Lytlec – These are the same tubes but be sure the spelling matches. There is also a brand called Litelec – These are not the same and are a far less popular Chinese import.
This is where it gets slightly tricky. A lot of people are currently using cheap imports that actually have no brand markings at all. This is where it is imperative you measure the lamp you are replacing as accurately as possible – And I mean as accurately as possible!
Here we display an unbranded range along with Lyvia (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH LYTLEC!) tubes. If neither of the above tubes match what you need check these out – But make sure you measure them properly – Throw out the old metric system of inches – You need to measure these tubes in millimeters!
Every year the Fire and Rescue Service is called to over 600,000 fires which result in over 800 deaths and over 17,000 injuries.
About 50,000 (140 a day) of these are in the home and kill nearly 500 and injure over 11,000, many which could have been prevented if people had an early warning and were able to get out in time. In fact you are twice as likely to die in a house fire that has no smoke alarm than a house that does.
Buying a smoke alarm could help save your home and the lives of you and your family.
It’s very important to check that the proposed dimmer works with the selected LED lamp before committing to a specification
Some months ago, Lux Review opened this discussion with Dimming LED lamps: the dos and don’ts. Here we delve further into the issue and look at what it means once the decision’s taken to go ahead with a dimmable LED installation.
Here are a few things that you need to avoid:
Failed LED driver
These are all inconveniences that are await you should you mismatch the electronics of the LED driver and the dimmer.
Choose the dimming method first
There are thousands of different dimmable LED light fixtures on the market, but only three major types of dimming method: mains dimming, Dali or DMX. (see box, below) So choose what kind of dimming you want before you select any LED luminaires. More lighting control manufacturers are providing lists of LED products that they have tested for compatibility with their equipment and this is a very useful service to any specifier.
Don’t buy cheap drivers
Most lighting control systems offer a variety of dimming protocols, the languages which they use to communicate with the lamp or driver. When you’ve chosen the method that’s right for your installation, you need to get LED drivers which match the performance and the protocol. A common problem lies in the design and build quality of the LED driver, leading to poor performance and occasional failure of either the LED or the dimmer circuitry.
For instance, the digital signaling from a Dali control system cannot always be translated by the driver into the appropriate lighting state that’s required. Beyond a certain level of dimming, the LEDs may simply switch off. But be pragmatic; if you’re only looking for dimming down to 50 per cent there’s no need to search for a driver that will take the lighting down to 5 per cent.
Similarly, where DMX signaling is ideal for colour-change installation, not all RGB drivers can cope with the demands of the system, and that can lead to some very poor colour effects. There’s a simple commercial equation that should be borne in mind: cheap = risky. Avoid cheap specifications, particularly of products like LED tape (see our recent review of LED tape) and always check with the control manufacturer that your preferred LED product is compatible with their system.
Test before you buy
In the domestic and small commercial environment, the lighting specification is very likely to be built around retrofit LED lamps, but the ‘retrofit’ title is becoming a misnomer because there are many new specifications making use of the technology to deliver relatively low-cost installations.
Being designated ‘retrofit’, customers often think that’s all there is to it and will simply swap a tungsten halogen lamp for an LED lamp. It doesn’t help that manufacturers of these LEDs also suggest the same thing on their packaging. But remember that this is an unregulated marketplace, so it’s very important to check that the proposed dimmer works with the selected LED lamp before committing to a specification. Test before you buy.
Although safety standards are still required in the manufacture of the LED because it’s an electrical product, there is no standard based on the performance of an LED. Each manufacturer produces LED products according to their design parameters and comparing two apparently similar products can be a nightmare of dissimilar specification reporting.
Use dimmers designed for LEDs
Most domestic dimmers are still designed for tungsten loads, typically rated at 250W and 400W, which is far higher than the electrical loading of the LED lamps taking over from them. Some domestic dimmers cannot ‘read’ the low loading of a LED lamp, so requiring an additional electrical load to be connected in order that the light will be recognized by the dimmer, contrary to any desire to reduce energy consumption, of course.
The simple answer is to use only those dimmers that have been designed for LED loads. More of these dimmers are becoming available, and are designed to operate at far lower loads. There is also a new style of intelligent dimmers – such as the Hamilton LEDstat – that take full advantage of new electronic technology, enabling it to match its performance with the requirements of the connected LED lamps.
Check the LED lamp fits – many don’t
All retrofit lamps are intended to replace an existing filament lamp, tungsten or tungsten halogen. That means that there are alternatives across the range, from the ordinary GLS lamp (the light bulb), to directional lamps for spotlighting and even chandelier-style candle lamps, some of which work to great, sparkling, effect. The inherent problem in every retrofit lamp is the limitation on physical size.
A retrofit lamp is no good if it doesn’t fit in the intended light fixture. And however perverse this may sound, that essential feature of a retrofit lamp hasn’t stopped some LED lamp manufacturers from producing lamps that simply don’t fit. It might make for a better engineered product, but it may not fit into the required fixture – so it’s good to check.
Only buy brands you trust
All of the LED circuitry, usually found in a separate driver housing in the more upmarket architectural luminaires, has to be contained within the given physical space of a retrofit lamp. And if the lamp is dimmable (and please remember that not all of them are) that means that the dimming components must also be housed in the same tiny space. This can cause thermal and mechanical stress and seriously affect the life of the lamp.
Buying anything with confidence means knowing the provenance of the product, and this is of primary importance when purchasing LED retrofit lamps. Either trust the brand, or trust that the company that you’re buying from has done the necessary investigations into the product’s quality. Never buy on-line unless you know the product or the company.
Be super cautious of GU10 lamps
GU10 LED lamps are replacements for mains voltage tungsten halogen lamps and are probably the single most popular of all LED retrofit lamps. The ubiquity of the downlighter has ensured that this lamp will survive long after the ‘retrofit’ tag becomes meaningless.
A dimmable GU10 lamp is a very busy piece of equipment indeed. Every LED source is an SELV (safety extra low voltage) device, so the GU10 also needs to house a transformer, as well as its dimmable driver components.
Because of the unregulated nature of LED manufacture, ensuring product worthiness of these GU10 lamps is an absolute priority. If you’re looking for a dimmable version, it’s all the more important to know what you’re buying and to trust who you’re buying from. Start by checking out our recent review of GU10 lamps.
Only use a LED MR16 LED if it comes with its own separate driver
There is an alternative to the GU10 lamp but it tends to be sidelined because it suffers from the same problem as the original low voltage lamps – it requires a separate component.
The LED MR16 lamp is the LED retrofit for the 12V tungsten halogen lamp. Although the 12V tungsten halogen lamp was superior to the GU10 mains voltage halogen alternative, it lost ground to the GU10 because it was more expensive, requiring a transformer that had to be mounted close by, usually in the ceiling void adjacent to the downlight containing the lamp.
The low-voltage MR16 LED lamp is also a superior lamp to the GU10 lamp because there is less stress in the lamp housing as the transformer electronics are remote from the housing. But there is a risk of this benefit being outweighed by a disadvantage. Most MR16 LED lamps are advertised as being compatible with tungsten halogen transformers and this is not necessarily the case. Electronic incompatibility rules supreme in these circuits and there have been plenty of flashing LEDs in evidence to demonstrate that truth.
The best way to use a dimmable LED MR16 lamp is to select a lamp that is supplied with its own remote driver housing. This provides the additional benefit of removing even more circuitry from the lamp housing so leaving maximum space for the light source to do its work.
Never mix and match
It’s never a good idea to mix LEDs from different manufacturers on the same dimming circuit. On the basis that every LED will have its own design of electronic circuitry, the dimmer probably won’t be capable of providing a common signal to each light source. This is a recipe for flicker and hum. While this restriction may be a headache for some of the more creative schemes, it’s a sound precautionary measure. And if it icreative schemes, but demonstrate that truth. source to do its work.ox). s essential to the scheme, we recommend that you mock-up the entire circuit on a workbench to test the design.
Because there are no performance standards for LED lamps and drivers it’s impossible to know whether future replacement equipment will operate in the same way as those originally installed, even if the new lamps are from the same company and carry the same part number. The same compatibility checking process has to start again, though it’s probably safe to assume that the dimming equipment won’t be compromised.
And when it comes to an isolated lamp failure in a circuit, the expensive news is that it’s best to change all of the lamps on that circuit to prevent a mismatch in circuit characteristics. It’s a damage limitation exercise and ensures that, with the proper checks mentioned above, the installation will continue to perform as required.
Check, check and check again
The message that is heard repeatedly is not to assume and always to check. The days when a filament lamp could be dimmed by almost anything and would always perform in the same way are gone. We are now in a world where electronic circuitry speaks to electronic circuitry and there is no over-arching standard yet in place to guarantee a unified performance.
Speak to the lighting control manufacturer. Have they tested the LED that you’d like to use and are they happy to see their equipment connected to it?
If you’re able, run a test yourself in as close to the operating conditions as possible.
Check minimum dimmer loadings if the dimmer is required to control just one of two LED lamps and, if so, test it yourself. And, if necessary, be prepared to adjust the scheme design to keep the LED-dimmer interface within safe operational bounds.
Check out our range of dimmable LED lightbulbs – http://www.lamps2udirect.com/led-light-bulbs/12
Ikea will no longer sell halogen and ‘energy-saving’ compact fluorescent bulbs from September, when it switches all its lighting sold globally to super efficient light-emitting diodes (LEDs).
The move affects over 2.3 million bulbs sold by the Swedish furniture chain each year in the UK and an undisclosed number in its markets elsewhere in Europe, North America, Asia, Africa and Oceania.
The EU was expected to ban certain halogen bulbs from sale from September 2016 but earlier this year delayed the ban until 2018, saying LED technology would not be ready in time.
Steve Howard, Ikea’s chief sustainability officer, said that three years ago, shoppers experienced ‘price tag shock’ with LEDs, but now their quality and cost had reached a tipping point, and the time was right for the switch.
“If it’s right for the customer, it’ll be right for Ikea. If you can produce a product that can last 25-30 times longer and save you 85% of the energy and have fantastic light quality, then that’s the right thing for the customer.”
He said the company’s scale had enabled it to reduce the cost of the plastics and other components of the bulbs. It becomes the first retailer in the UK to sell only LEDs for lighting.
As well as using much less energy than halogens – around 85% – and even less than CFLs, LEDs last longer, with an average lifespan of around 25,000 hours. Ikea estimated that a household switching from 10 incandescent bulbs – which were banned from sale in Europe in 2012 – would save £300 a year on energy costs by switching to LEDs.
“If you can help customers save energy and help do something towards climate change, that’s the right thing to do,” Howard said.
He said that while households and businesses had to be engaged in tackling climate change, they could only do so much and that governments had to act too.
“We’ll keep going with our direction regardless. But we recognise not every business is responding [to climate change], so at a national level we need strong regulation.
Howard said it was important that government agreed a strong climate change deal at the later this year. “Business can do a lot, but we need good policy frameworks from governments, so Paris is important,” he said.
In June, Ikea said it would spend €1bn ($1.13bn) on renewable energy and measures to help poorer countries adapt to climate change. The company has said that it will generate all of the energy used in its shops and factories from clean sources by 2020.